
Chinaman, 10" x 8", Oil on canvas, 2001, $300
10" x 8" Ink Jet print, $25
Emiko's
Home, 10" x 8", pencil on paper, $150
After we got our Asian legs we spent several days with
Irene's roommate from college. They treated us with exceptional hospitality
and went way out of their way to accommodate us. Emiko and Kato live in
the country on the Eastern peninsula of Tokyo Bay. Their home was most
charming and a first class way for us to be introduced to Japanese living.
We spend our time sight seeing and eating the most extraordinary foods.
We sadly missed Emiko and Kato after they dropped us off at my friends
home in Tokyo. The rental car even had a gps driven map. It showed where
you were and what turns to take to your destination. It spoke in a female
voice! In Japan they place such high taxes on vehicles yearly that most
are only a few years old.
Kyoto
Palace, 8" x 10", oil on canvas
After a day in Tokyo we took the bullet train to Kobe to visited Irene's
American friends, Katheleen & Stu. They are in Kobe because Proctor
& Gamble's international headquarters is there. They live in a spacious
high rise with four bedrooms and four baths. On the tenth floor you can
see the fantastic harbor with the most modern facilities. The day before
Thanksgiving we had dinner at a special Kobe beef restaurant. On Thanksgiving
we visited Himeji Castle. I painted a small canvas and later met Irene
and Katheleen at home. Thanksgiving dinner was the finest seasoned tofu!
Upon leaving Kobe we stayed two nights at a Japanese
style inn located on the grounds of the Mishima fertility shrine in Kyoto.
The fertility ceremony was preformed by the shrine's monk who also was
the inn keepers. Irene is not suppose to eat eel for two weeks! As it
turns out the Mishima Shrine is the same shrine for eel farmers. Eel tastes
a lot like catfish. It is a fresh water fish that goes out to sea and
returns much like salmon! The shrine quite hidden and it took us a full
three hours to find it. Of course the big draw back was the language and
in the end I had to match line for line the symbols of the Japanese language
to find the street! We focused on learning Japanese. Cantonese is tonal
and difficult to learn.
In Kyoto we hooked up with my friend Yuso. I had painted
his portrait in NYC ten years ago! We quickly traveled to many shrines
under his prefect tutelage. Golden Pagota, zen rock garden and Gisha girls
all came our way and enthralled us. The weather was prefect Fall and the
colors could only be topped by the Spring cherry blossoms.
Japan is homogeneous in terrain and people from top to bottom. Only the
crops vary according to weather and latitude. There are persimmon trees
in Tokyo. Tea and oranges grow just a little South of Tokyo. Once back
in Tokyo we had two days left on our rail pass and took two day trips.
One to a small city just a hour South and another to a city on the Sea
of Japan. To get to the later we took the bullet train right through the
Japanese alps. Twenty minutes in a tunnel going 120 miles per hour is
quite a experience! In the North they tie up the pine trees and bushes
so the snow does not distort the fine work of the pruners. Pruning and
landscaping is rampant in Japan. If I did some of the things to the trees
here that they do there I would be arrested!
We ate a lot of noodles. Always a bowl of noodles with a main dish of
rice and fish. They make the noodles by stretching the dough until it
is as thin as possible. The water makes them expand to about one eighth
inch in diameter. The tempura was exceptional. We dined as quests at the
best tempura restaurant in Tokyo. Irene's Japanese roommate from UNC husbands
uncle treated us. He was a pilot in WW II. His first mission was August
17th, 1945. On the way to bomb the American base at Siapan he was called
back because the Japanese had surrendered! He would have surly died. Those
missions were kamikaze, without enough fuel to return. I bought Japanese
WW II boots. More like cloth high top socks with a thin rubber sole. The
toes and big toe separated so they could slip into sandals. The old workmen
wear them with breeches.
Irene and I visited the incendiary bombing display
at the Edo Museum. 200,000 people died in the fires of Tokyo, more than
the atomic bombs dropped. Japanese housing is wood frame with mud walls
making fire a big problem. Many of the Shrines and Temples are destroyed
by fire. The terrain of Japan is homogeneous. The volcanic mountains eroded
to create vast flatlands that in circle the mountains. People do not live
in the mountains causing them to live in small plots surrounded by rice
patties and vegetable plots. Fishermen work the hundreds of canals caused
by the drainage from the mountains. Japan is a country of endless canals.
The big part of Japan's people is their homogeneous
wealth. All except the illusive poor and corporate heads are just about
in the same income bracket. There is insulation from foreign competition.
When the Japanese change they change from the top down. The Japanese change
all at once. If the government decided that it was ok to eat foreign rice
then the next day all of the Japanese would eat foreign rice! Rice, telephone
service and banking are all uniquely Japanese. To obtain a new telephone
line is a very expensive and lengthy process so most of the young people
have mobile phones! Not embarrassing others is a big part of the Japanese
way. Making inroads into their market is just as easy as finding a way
for a win win situation!

Tokyo Canal, 16" x 12", oil on canvas, $800
Our most gracious host Yuso Hase in Tokyo has three
tips for his countrymen who go to America. Do not slurp your soup if it
has no noodles. The Japanese hold their noodle soup up to their mouth
and slurp, shoveling the noodles in with their chop sticks. Do not say
yes when you mean you understand. The Japanese have the habit of saying
"Hite"(Yes) many times during a conversation meaning that they
understand what you are saying, but in the US that could mean you agree
to what is being said. The third thing was no smoking. Smoking cigarettes
is a big thing. I believe cigars will eventually have a huge market there
when the Japanese stop smoking from habit.
My Grandmother Higgins spent some time in the Philippines. Grandfather
was a tank commander in the Army and they spent a few years there. My
mother learned to speak the tigala language, she was three! She said that
when they left the Philippines, by boat, a whale followed them all the
way across the Pacific!